Jacksonville, FL · updated weekly · free

What's worth pulling at the junkyard today

Everybody compares the yard tag to the eBay price and calls the difference profit. That math is wrong. Take out the 13.25 % eBay fee, the shipping, the core charge and Duval County tax, and four of the twelve parts below stop making money.

2 yards Real fees, real shipping Ranked by $/hour on the wrench Verify every number yourself

Today's board

Yard prices are the running average across both yards. Resale is an estimated range from recent eBay sold listings. Ranking uses the low end, so the board understates rather than oversells. Tap any row for the full arithmetic and a one-click comp check.

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PartYard avgResale est. Per hour, worst caseNet range

Check a comp in 90 seconds

Our estimate gets you to a shortlist. This gets you to a decision. Do it standing in the row, before the part comes off the car — it's the difference between a side hustle and an expensive hobby.

  1. Search the part with the year, make and model

    Type it the way a seller would title it: 2014 Honda Accord alternator. Not "alternator Honda" — you'll pull in every model and the numbers go soft.

  2. Find the part number and search that instead

    Every reusable part has a number stamped or stickered on it. Photograph it while the part is still bolted to the car, then search the number alone.

    This is the single biggest jump in accuracy you can make. A part number match tells you the exact unit sold. A year-make-model match tells you something like it did. The same alternator often fits six model years, and the price spread across them is wide.
  3. Filter to Sold, not active listings

    On desktop, scroll the left rail to Show only → Sold items. On the app, tap Filter at the top right, then Sold items.

    Asking prices are fiction. Anyone can list an alternator for $300; the question is what someone actually paid. The green sold price is the only number that counts.

  4. Set condition to Used

    Remanufactured and new-aftermarket units sell for two to three times what a yard-pulled part does. Leaving them in the results is the most common way people talk themselves into a bad pull.

  5. Look at the last 90 days only

    eBay shows sold results going back about three months. If most of what you're seeing sits near the far end of that window, treat the number as stale — demand moves with the seasons and with what's been getting wrecked.

  6. Throw out the top and bottom of the range

    The bottom is salvage-for-parts and damaged units. The top is dealers with return policies and warranties you can't match. Take the middle cluster — that's your realistic number.

  7. Check whether shipping was free

    A $95 sale with free shipping on a 12-pound alternator is really about $73 in the seller's pocket. If the listing shows free shipping, subtract what it would cost you to send it before you compare against anything.

  8. Count how many sold against how many listed

    Switch the filter back to all listings and compare the count. Twenty sold against twenty-five listed is a part that moves. Three sold against forty listed is a part that sits in your garage for a year while your money does nothing.

    A thin margin on a part that sells in ten days beats a fat margin on one that sells in ten months. Velocity is the number most people never check.

Never on this board

  • ×Catalytic converters. Federal and Florida resale rules, and every yard already pulls them.
  • ×Airbags and SRS modules. Undeployed airbags are a DOT hazmat shipment and an eBay-prohibited item.
  • ×Seatbelt pretensioners. Same hazmat class, same ban.

These aren't filtered in the interface — a database constraint refuses to write them at all.

What this board can't tell you

The car may already be picked clean. Inventory says the donor is in the row. It doesn't say the alternator is still bolted to it.

Yard prices move. Ours is an average. Tags change, yards run half-price weekends, and GO Pull-It discounts for veterans — all of which beat our number. Photograph the posted price board on your way in.

$/hour assumes you're already there. It counts wrench time, not the drive, not the entry fee, not the twenty minutes finding the row.